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Structure and Physical Properties of Wool

Structure and Physical Properties of wool

◎編集:Dr.Kozo ARAI and Dr.Kyohei JOKO
    

「羊毛の構造と物性」の英語版。海外研修等に!
販売価格 11,200円
(内訳) 本体:10,000円
税  :800円
送料:400円
判 型 B5判(上製本)
頁 数 240頁
発 行 2016年8月
数量 

Contents

・Preface

 Kozo ARAI

Part 1 Basic Course

Explanatory Note

Chapter 1 Wool and Animal Hair

 1.1 The History of Mankind and Sheep Wool
                   

by Teruo OUCHI


  1.1.1 Ancient Sheep
  1.1.2 Sheep Farming in Europe
  1.1.3 Merino Sheep in the Southern Hemisphere
  1.1.4 Sheep Farming in Japan
 1.2 Relatives of the Sheep
                   

by Teruo OUCHI


 1.3 Fiber Identification
               

by Norio NAGASAWA


 1.4 Wool Grease
              

by Norio NAGASAWA


  1.4.1 Composition of Lanolin
  1.4.2 Uses of Lanolin
Animal Hair and the Electron Micrograph

Chapter 2 Wool Fiber Structure

               

by Hiroshi SAKABE


 2.1 Morphology and Structure
 2.2 Cuticles
 2.3 Cortex
 2.4 CMC
 2.5 Microstructure
   2.5.1 Microfibril Structure
   2.5.2 Secondary Structure of IF Proteins

Chapter 3 The Seven Wonders of Wool

                 

by Ryo UMEHARA


 3.1 Repels water but also absorbs water
 3.2 Dyes well but is not easily soiled
 3.3 The cells breathe even though they are lifeless
 3.4 Absorbs water but is excellent in heat retention
 3.5 Difficult to burn
 3.6 Spinnability and felting property
 3.7 Excellent resilience due to shape memory

Chapter 4 Performance in Terms of Consumption

 4.1 Fiber Fineness and Fiber Length
                       

by Yutaka SHIBATA


 4.2 Prickle Sensation
                       

by Yutaka SHIBATA


 4.3 Elasticity
                        

by Yutaka SHIBATA


 4.4 Pilling and Nep
                

by Michiko MITSUI


  4.4.1 Pilling
  4.4.1 Nep
 4.5 Abrasion and Shine

by Michiko MITSUI


  4.5.1 Abrasion
  4.5.2 Shine
 4.6 Morphological Stability and Shrinkage

by Michiko MITSUI


  4.6.1 Morphological Stability
  4.6.2 Shrinkage
  4.6.3 Elongation
 4.7 Setting

by Yutaka SHIBATA


  4.7.1 What is Setting?
  4.7.2 Bonds Involved in Setting
  4.7.3 Cleavage and Recombination of Disulfide Bonds
  4.7.4 Formation of Covalent Bond
(Lanthionine and Lysinoalanine)
  4.7.5 Formation of Bunte Salt
 4.8 Hygral Expansion (HE)
                

by Yutaka SHIBATA


  4.8.1 HE of a Single Fiber
  4.8.2 Swelling Shrimkage
  4.8.3 HE of a Woven Fabric and Principles of HE
  4.8.4 Notable Points concerning HE
 4.9 Felting Property
  4.9.1 Definition of the Felting Property
  4.9.2 The Mechanism of Felting
  4.9.3 Evaluation of Felting Property and Products
              

by Kozo SHIMAZAKI


  4.9.4 Shrink-Proofing
                    

by Norio NAGASAWA


 4.10 Deodorizing Function
                   

by Ryo UMEHARA


 4.11 Metal Adsorption

by Ryo UMEHARA


  4.11.1 Copper-Deficient
  4.11.2 Electron Transfer
  4.11.3 Mercury Adsorption
  4.11.4 Heavy Metal Ion Adsorption Capacities of Wool Fibers
  4.11.5 Zipro Flame Proofing
 4.12 The Hand of a Fabric
            

by Takeichiro BABA


  4.12.1 Measurement and Standardization of Hand
  4.12.2 Hand Measurement System
  4.12.3 Applications and Future of Hand Measurement
 

Chapter 5 Theories of Physical and Chemical Properties

 5.1 Mechanical Properties of a Wool Fiber
                  

by Mitsuo MATSUDAIRA


  5.1.1 The Basic Stress - Strain Curve
  5.1.2 Effects of Moisture on Strength and Elongation of a Wool Fiber
  5.1.3 Other Mechanical Properties
  5.1.4 Viscoelastic Properties of a Wool Fiber
 5.2 Chemical Properties
                     

by Kozo ARAI


  5.2.1 Oxidation of the Disulfide (SS) Group by Hydrogen Peroxide
  5.2.2 Reduction of the SS Group
  5.2.3 Sulfitolysis
  5.2.4 Self-Crosslinking Reactions
  5.2.5 SH/SS Interchange Reaction
 5.3 Relation with Water
                 

by Mitsuhiro FUKUDA


  5.3.1 The External Environment and Hygroscopicity
  5.3.2 Moisture Regain and Moisture Content
  5.3.3 Water inside Wool Fibers
  5.3.4 Moisture Regain and Physical Properties
  5.3.5 Characteristics of Sorbed Water -Bound Water and Free Water-
 5.4 Consumption Characteristics
  5.4.1 Water Repellency
  5.4.2 Soil Proof
  5.4.3 Flame Retardant Property
                        

by Naoko NAGASHIMA


  5.4.4 Heat Retaining Property
  5.4.5 Comfort
                

by Toru TAKAGISHI


 5.5 Thermal Properties
               

by Kyohei JOKO


 5.6 Light-Related Properties
                      

by Natsuko KOHARA


                   

Chapter 6 Instrumental Analysis

 6.1 Microscopic Observations of Wool Fibers
  6.1.1 Optical Microscopy
  6.1.2 Electron Microscopy
                     

by Michiko OKADA


  6.1.3 Scanning Probe Microscopy
                        

by Teppei NAWA


 6.2 X-ray Diffraction
                        

by Takashi ITOU


 6.3 Infrared and Raman Spectroscopy
                     

by Akio KUZUHARA


  6.3.1 Raman Spectra of Keratin Fibers
  6.3.2 Characterization of Wool
 6.4 Differential Scanning Calorimetry DSC

by Kyohei JOKO


6.5 XPS
                           

by Mitsuru TAHARA


  6.5.1 Wide Scan
  6.5.2 Bonding States of Carbon and Oxygen
  6.5.3 Bonding States of Sulfur
  6.5.4 Element Ratio
 6.6 MS and TOF-SIMS
                    

by Masayuki OKAMOTO


Part 2 Applied Course

Chapter 1 Molecular Structure of Keratin

                     

by Kozo ARAI


 1.1 Chemical Composition
 1.2 Chemical Structure of the Cortex

Chapter 2 Morphological Structure of Wool

by Kozo ARAI


 2.1 Structure of the Cuticle
 2.2 The Allwoerden Reaction
 2.3 18-Methyleicosanoic Acid
 2.4 Opening and Closing of the Scales
 2.5 Differential Frictional Effect of the Fiber Surface

Chapter 3 Structure of the Cortex

by Kozo ARAI


 3.1 Features of the Cortex Tissue Structure
 3.2 Secondary Structure of IF Proteins
 3.3 Aggregation Structure of IF Filaments
  3.3.1 Solid Cylinder Model
  3.3.2 Hollow Cylinder Model
  3.3.3 Tetramer Parallel Chain Model
3.4 Matrix Component Proteins

Chapter 4 Structure of the Cell Membrane Complex

by Kozo ARAI


 4.1 Internal (Structural) Lipids of Wool
 4.2 Microscopic Structure of CMC
 4.3 Structure and Function of the Cuticle Surface Lipid, 18-Methyleicosanoic Acid
 4.4 External Environment Dependence of the Epicuticular Membrane Surface

Chapter 5 Structure of Disulfide Crosslinks

by Kozo ARAI


 5.1 Introduction
 5.2 Characterization of the SS Crosslinks of a Keratin Fiber
 5.3 Application of Network Elasticity Theory to Swollen Keratin Fibers
  5.3.1 Application of a Two-Phase Model
  5.3.2 Determination of Structural Parameters
 5.4 Application to Boiling-Water-Treated Fibers
  5.4.1 Preparation of Boiling-Water-Treated (Set) Samples and Self-Crosslinking Reaction by the Treatment
  5.4.2 Crosslink Structures of Non-Elongated and 40%-Elongated/Set Fibers
  5.4.3 Preparation of Reduced Fibers and Characterization of Newly Introduced Crosslink Bonds
 5.5 Types and Numbers of SS Crosslinks of the IF Molecule
 5.6 Locations, Types and Numbers of SS Crosslinks on the IF Chain
 5.7 Aggregate Structures and Numbers of Intramolecular and Intermolecular Crosslinks of KAP Molecules and Bonding Between an IF Chain and a KAP
  5.7.1 Crosslink Structures of KAP Molecules
  5.7.2 Crosslink Structure Models of Wool and Hair
 5.8 Conclusion

Chapter 6 Sorption Positions of Water and Roles Thereof

by Kozo ARAI


 6.1 Adsorption/Desorption Isotherm
 6.2 Humidity Change in the Strength - Elongation Curve
 6.3 Hydration and Swelling
 6.4 Water Inside Microstructures
 6.5 Glass Transition Temperature Tg and Moisture Content of Wool Fiber

Chapter 7 The Wool Fiber ?A Cell Assembly with the Ordered Non-Uniform Structure

          

by Kyohei JOKO


 7.1 Introduction
 7.2 Dye Distribution in Practical Dyeing
 7.3 Dyeing Affinity of Histological Components
 7.4 Macroscopic (Hierarchical) Structure of Keratin Fibers
 7.5 Non-Uniform (Differential) Dyeing Seen in Merino Wool Fibers
  7.5.1 Control According to Dye Characteristics
  7.5.2 Control by Time
  7.5.3 Control by the Dye Medium
 7.6 Advantages due to Non-Uniformization Treatment
 7.7 Conclusion

Chapter 8 Comfort of Wool Products

         

by Teruko TAMURA


 8.1 Comfort of Clothing
 8.2 Methods for Evaluating Comfort
 8.3 Comfort of Wool Products
 8.4 Climate Adaptation by Clothing and the Comfort of Wool Products
 8.5 Comfort of Wool Products under Cold Conditions
 8.6 Comfort of Wool Products under Hot Conditions
 8.7 Comfort of Wool Products in Cool Biz Fashion

Chapter 9 The Science of Fabric Hand

                    

by Mari INOUE


 9.1 Concepts of the Touch or “Hand" of a Fabric
 9.2 Standardization of Sensory Evaluation of Fabric Hand
 9.3 Basic Mechanical Characteristics and Surface Characteristics of Fabrics
 9.4 Objective Evaluation of the Fabric Hand
 9.5 Measurement System for Objective Evaluation of Hand
 9.6 Mechanical Properties and Surface Characteristics of a Fabric of Satisfactory Tactile Sensation
 9.7 Objective Evaluation of Hand and Material Design

◆ Index

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